Sunday, July 19, 2009

19 July 09 cromwell and lincoln cathedral


Cromwell did a real job on the cathedral in Lincoln. They stripped all the brasses from the tombs in the cathedral, trashed most of the statuary on the outside, destroyed almost all of the stained glass. It was evidently a capital crime to try to rescue any of the glass, but townsfolk picked up lots of random pieces anyway and hid them away. The rose window in the south transept is made of reclaimed bits of this stained glass, or so I'm told.

Some of the brasses have been restored, maybe three; most have not. Katherine Swynford's Chantry Chapel was destroyed, and her tomb and that of her daughter are now end to end rather than side by side; Katherine's is still in its same place, but not inside a chantry chapel.

I asked about the window, as it reminds me of the west window in York Minster, the petal shape in the lead does, anyway, and one of the clergy suggested that Lincoln cathedral is FAR superior to York Minster. It is a lovely place, I admit, and everybody in town (a) seems to know we're here ("you sound like an American; are you here with that choir that's visiting?") and (b) seems to really enjoy living in Lincoln. This is the way York always struck me; people who lived there were very fond of the place.

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